BELOW IS A VIDEO OF THE EVERBURN NON-CATALYTIC SYSTEM WORKING
Even after more than 15 years in the business, I am continually amazed at the technology being poured into something as seemingly primative as a wood heating stove.
Even though the EPA started regulating wood stove emissions in the late 80’s, the most significant improvements are just coming about in the industry. Today, the most common question I hear from shoppers is, “what is the meaning of catalytic vs. non-catalytic when referring to wood stoves?”
I can tell you, the whole catalytic / non-catalytic conversation is terribly overcomplicated by almost everyone associated with the industry.
Simply put, all stoves I sell are EPA certified for low emissions. Catalytic or non-catalytic ONLY relates to HOW these stoves achieve their secondary combustion to meet these strict requirements. A catalytic stove will pass exhaust through an active catalytic combustor whereas a non-catalytic stove will introduce air in a special way to cause secondary combustion to occur.
The quick-fix back in the late 80’s and early 90’s was to simply add a catalytic combustor and minor design modifications to a simple wood stove. This worked to reduce emissions, and for many years was the standard in efficiency.
Some manufacturers have failed to evolve past the early 90’s with their designs and continue to offer a simply designed stove with a catalytic combustor.
Some manufacturers have never offered a catalytic stove or did so only briefly in favor of a high-efficiency, non-catalytic design. Most manufacturers have evolved past catalytic combustors and now offer clean burning non-catalytic designs while the best of the best may offer your stove either way you like. Vermont Castings is just such a manufacturer.
Vermont Castings manufactures specialty lines in both Vermont Castings and Dutchwest brands. Vermont Castings offers 3 stoves, 1 insert and 1 fireplace in catalytic as well as 4 stoves, 1 insert and 1 fireplace in non-catalytic.
The dutchwest brand offer 3 catalytic wood stoves as well as 10 stoves and an insert in non-catalytic design.
As if these choices weren’t enough, there is always the follow-up question, “what is best for me?”
Personally, I am in favor of non-catalytic designs due primarilly to their lower cost of ownership. Catalytic combustors are sacrificial elements and will need replacement after 5-10 years depending on how much you use your stove and how well you maintain it. Heating primarilly with wood, you’re going to like changing your combustor every 5 years to keep your stove working like new.
As far as design function goes, generally you can expect that a well-designed catalytic stove will offer the highest efficiency and cleanest burning out of the box. MOST, but not all non-catalytic designs are relatively simple. MOST non-catalytic stoves will achieve secondary combustion (burning of smoke and emissions before they leave the stove) in the top of the stove by introducing super-heated air at a precise volume through air tubes or an airbox.
There is ONE manufacturer that is miles ahead of anyone else when it comes to innovative non-catalytic design. Since introducing the patented EVERBURN system to the market, Vermont Castings has set a new standard by which non-catalytic stoves are measured.
The EVERBURN system achieves remarkably long burn times as well as efficiency and emission numbers that rival catalytic systems without the additional cost of ownership. Would you expect anything less from a product designed and built 100% by the American worker? I think not.
While other “American” stoves are merely assembled in the USA of foreign acquired parts, Vermont Castings does it all right here in the USA from recycling metals and casting iron in their state-of-the-art foundry to final assembly and quality control, when you choose Vermont Castings, you choose to support American jobs and families.
This is a choice that does not cost you extra! When you stand a Vermont Castings stove next to ANY high-end manufacturer you will see that the prices are the same if not less for the Vermont Castings product line. The Dutchwest line comes in hundreds and even over $1,000 less than competitors and still MADE IN THE USA.
Although the price is soon forgotten, you’ll appreciate the value crated with these stoves since most stoves come standard with accessories other manufacturers sell as upgrades, you get a lot for your money when you choose Vermont Castings.
Come by or call today and let me compare a Vermont Castings stove to ANY other brand and you’ll see why you don’t have to search the globe to find the best stove or fireplace for your home.
We’ve been sending Montpeliers out the door like crazy but I finally got one on the floor that I am not gonna let go too fast. Once you see this you are going to be IN LOVE, I guarantee it. The Montpelier has the largest glass door of any other insert in its class. The price point for the Montpelier is great too! This stove comes in hundreds less than a comparable competitor and it is a true CAST-IRON 100% AMERICAN MADE product!
This photo features the Montpelier in classic black with the Georgian cast surround package. Come in and see it today!
So you’ve just layed down $1500 bucks on a brand new wood stove. You figure you will just vent that thing into the fireplace and save the expense of adding a chimney to the house. That is possible, but you do have some very serious considerations to make…
If you’ve gotten up to date on fire safety codes you might have been pleasantly surprised to learn that according to the law, you can still shove a stovepipe through a metal plate and into the fireplace. If that is your plan, I want to strongly urge you to reconsider. I have several reasons;
The code should be updated to address a severe safety risk associated with this practice. Without connecting the stove vent to the lined chimney area, all masonry parts of the fireplace are coated in creosote and virtually impossible to properly clean. This causes a major fire hazard. At the VERY LEAST you should install a direct-connect package (pictured) to get the flue products into the chimney without coating the fireplace ans smoke shelf.
The stove may require a reduction in chimney diameter to work properly. Today’s high efficiency wood appliances are putting almost all of their heat into the home. This means stack temperatures are much lower than in an older stove. Heat powers the chimney and creates draft. Less heat means weaker draft. Whereas an old stove might have worked great with a 13 inch chimney, your new model may not work at all until you properly size the chimney to fit the appliance.
The absolute best installation for function and safety is to line your chimney from stove to cap with the proper size. Your stove will perform its best and your chimney will always remain in the condition it was in before you added the liner.
With a full reline you will never have to worry about the tolls of age on your masonry chimney. Keeping the heat and corrosives contained in the stainless-steel liner system will ensure your masonry chimney stays like new.
Chimney cleaning is much easier with a direct connect kit than with the “into the fireplace” method which is tedious and practically impossible to do right. However, if you spring for a few more bucks and install a full liner system, cleaning will be a breeze every year. In fact, with a full liner system, you could buy your own brush and rods and do the cleaning yourself saving about $150 per cleaning! Cleaning up after lesser installations will likely require special equipment and you should call a professional.
I hope this article answers a few questions you may have about relining. Remember, if your chimney is damaged or not up to code, you MUST fully reline it to be safe. Also, if you are installing a gas stove you MUST fit the stove with the proper size liner for the stove. If you have any questions or need an evaluation, you can always call on us at 828-367-0031 or shoot me an email to Jack@FireByJack.com for a quick response.
When installing a stove or fireplace in a home, one question that always comes up is how often does the chimney need cleaning? The answer isn’t always as simple as “every year”.
The frequency at which you will have to clean your chimney will depend on several factors such as;
~How many cords of wood you burn per season. Burning twice as much wood as your neighbor, your chimney will need cleaned twice as often.
~What is the quality of your firewood? Did you buy seasoned firewood with a moisture content of 20% or did you buy someones “cut-to-order” firewood with a moisture content of 75%? Seasoned firewood burns hot, clean, and more complete and will deposit a fraction of the creosote as wet wood. Your firewood should be split and stacked to air dry for about a year to fully season.
~Is your stove or insert properly sized? An oversized stove burned on low most of the time will deposit a lot more creosote than a properly sized stove burning hot. Don’t worry, the stove can take it. Fire that baby up!
~Is your stove or fireplace EPA Certified? An EPA certified stove, burned hot, will reburn smoke and gasses before they ever enter the chimney resulting in much cleaner chimneys.
~Are you burning an open fireplace? Open fireplaces burn very hot with a lot of dillution air. They produce very little accumulation in the chimney.
As you can see, many factors play into a seemingly simple answer. To make things simple, always have the sweep out to have a good look at your chimney. A light cleaning will cost you less and you will know that you’re ready for next season with a healthy chimney. You may find your burning habits are good and not much creosote is deposited. GOOD FOR YOU! On the flip-side, poor burning habits, wet wood, old stoves or over-sized stoves may require more than one cleaning per season. I have several customers using old stoves that need cleaning 3 or 4 times per season! WOW, add those bills up and an investment in a new stove doesn’t sound so out of reach.
Whatever your habits, always be safe with an annual inspection and cleaning if necessary. The best time to schedule is in the off season from April through July. Once July ends people start to prepare for winter so the cleaning promotions will be gone.
If you need your chimney cleaned, Jack’s Stove Shop in Black Mountain, NC can help. Just give us a call and we will set up service for you at your convenience.
You have lots of choices, but which one is right for you?
When to choose an insert – When converting a wood burning fireplace to gas or to burn wood more efficiently. A fireplace insert is a convenient and affordable way to convert your existing wood burning fireplace to natural gas or liquid propane gas (LPG). Perhaps you still want to burn wood or pellets, but for efficient heating purposes more so than ambiance. Inserts fit into your existing fireplace and use the existing chimney. To determine the size you will need just measure the opening of your fireplace – (width x height x depth) and give Jack a call or email. We’ll help you select the correct fireplace insert for your home.
When to choose direct vent gas - When you don’t have a chimney or when you want the most efficient sealed-combustion design. A Direct Vent Fireplace is a perfect solution for homes that don’t have an existing chimney. The sealed combustion units draw outside air in for combustion and simultaneously exhaust the flue gasses out a small exhaust vent. The fireplaces can be installed in almost any room in your house*…several options and styles are available. You can have a direct-vent appliance configured as an insert, stove, or fireplace. Choices abound with direct-vent technology; the most advanced available and the target of the most agressive investment by manufacturers.
When to choose a stove – Can be used with or without an existing chimney. Freestanding stoves are an attractive and functional addition to any room. Stoves are available with multiple venting options and can go virtually anywhere in your house. Cast iron and steel stoves are admired for their esthetic beauty and are available in a variety of colors and options to suit your every need. Stoves are available in wood, gas, coal, oil, pellet and kerosene. Some gas stoves are unvented and require no chimney at all and manufactured chimney systems are available if your home has no chimney.
When to choose Gas Logs – When converting a wood fireplace to a gas fireplace to keep the fireplace look. LPG and natural gas log sets fit easily inside your existing wood fireplace providing fireplace ambiance with added convenience and less mess. No more lugging wood and dirt into the house. With a gas log set you enjoy the fireplace and robust flames while adding thermostat or remote control convenience. Jack has personally installed thousands of gas logs in fireplaces. Contact Jack to find out if your fireplace is a good canditate for conversion.
*Local building codes may prohibit installation in certain rooms.
Don’t be a sucker when you are getting firewood. Buy your firewood a year in advance of the heating season.
If you are buying wood for immediate use, call around and find seasoned firewood even if you have to pay more. If wood is still wet you won’t heat much with it no matter how hard you try.
The video below is really good and explains how to harvest, split stack and cure your firewood for the season.
One thing I miss about heating with wood are the awesome one-pot meals I used to make on the top of the stove.
I would not dare wait on a power-outage to enjoy some fine dining on those cold winter days in Ridgecrest.
Here is one of my favorite recipes. Don’t even let the word blandenter your mind. This is a Southern delicacy. A big bowl of this beats caviar or escargot any day of the week.
Remember to give yourself a day-ahead preparation on the beans.
Great Norther Beans & Ham
Get yourself a great big pot. You’re gonna need it. Next gather up some very inexpensive ingredients. This huge mess of food will have you smacking your lips for days and will only cost a few dollars.
One or two large bags of raw Great Northern Beans. Personally, I like to mix one bag of Northerns and one bag of Limas. They work very well together.
one or two ham hocks. Choose the meaty ones. Also ask your butcher for the smoked ham scraps. Those meaty chunks are the best! Be aware this is going to be the meat portion of the meal. Add all you want. No matter how much you put you will swear to do more next time. I guarantee that!
Salt & Pepper.
Start the night before. Put all your beans in the big pot and wash them thoroughly.
Once clean, add a generous amount of salt – about a 1/4 cup and then fill the pot again with water a little more than double the volume of the raw beans.
you can leave the beans to soak in the salt water overnight. In the morning you will see the beans have tenderized and plumped up.
Drain off this water and rinse.
Add water and salt again. Add some crushed black pepper. Drop in your ham hocks and make sure you have plenty of water to cover everything. Not too full though, you don’t want to get messy on the stove.
Cover the pot and place it on the wood stove. If your stove is burning very hot, move your pot around or elevate it so it cooks slowly. If this stews all day, it will be that much better as the hocks and bean flavors mingle. There are few meats I enjoy better than smoked ham stewed with beans for 8 hours! It is amazing.
Keep a check on your stew. Make sure it does not stick or go dry. Just add water as needed and keep it stirred. When you start seeing meatless bones in there, it’s about done. throw those hock bones to the dog and he’ll fight bears to protect you.
Once it’s done, dip you up a big bowl. You can top it if you like. Diced wild onions are great. I like to chop bread and butter pickles and onions on top of mine. A dab of shredded cheddar is ok sometimes.
Make yourself a big fat cake of cornbread to go with it and you have yourself a one-pot meal that will warm your bones on the coldest of days. I like a big wedge of cornbread with the stew poured over it. mmm. Lord I’m getting hungry! Oh, a big glass of milk is nice too.
Got a favorite wood stove recipe? Leave it as a comment to this post and share it!
If you’re a fireplace lover you probably have a secret place where you dump your fireplace ashes when you clean out the fireplace.
Since a cord of firewood produces about 50 pounds of ash, it can add up rather quickly.
Since ashe came from trees, it is carbon neutral to the environment so why not use this free by-product of keeping warm to eliminate some of the other things that may not be so environmentally friendly? Here is a list of uses for fireplace ash;
When it snows, keep a box in the trunk of the car. Fireplace ask is great for giving you enough traction to get out of the snow when you’re stuck.
Did your pet come out on the stinking end of a skuink encounter? Rub a nice handful into scruffy’s coat to neutralize the smell.
Mix with water into a paste to make a fabulous metal polish. No more masks and harsh chemicals!
Use ash on a damp towel to clean your stove or fireplace doors.
You can make your own organic soaps! Soak ashes in warm water to make lye. Mix with lard and boil to make soap. Salt makes it harden as it cools. niiiice.
lay a perrimeter of ash around your garden to keep out slugs and snails.
Ash makes a great deicer that will not harm your lawn.
Mix ash with your compost to make it super-enriched.
1 tbsp of ash per 1,000 galons of water in your pond will control algae.
ROSES LOVE FIREPLACE ASHE! I hope I am not giving away a secret but my old friend Alice Parks in Montreat had the most beautiful roses. I would tend her fireplaces annually and she would show me her roses and tell me about how the fireplace ashes did wonders for them.
Sprinkle ashes on your lawn as a natural fertilizer for your soil.
Have some other great uses for ashes? Registered users can leave new ideas as a comment.
I often get calls on how to build a fire. The most common complaint is that the fire gets going but the kindling burns out and the logs don’t catch. Here are some tips (my picture shows a fire that will not start – no kindling);
-Start with several loosly balled up newspaper sheets. 8 or 10 will do it.
-Next, put on some finely split dry kindling or fatwood.
-Next, some larger dry kindling. Kinld dried lumber scraps are great. Cut up pallets are awesome. Do not use treated lumber as this gives off a poisonous smoke and is bad for the environment. Use PLENTY of kindling.
-Next put on a couple of small splits of firewood. Rounds take a long time to catch on fire and will only burn in a hot fire. Save rounds for later when the fire is roaring.
-Light your newspaper and the rest will catch up. If you used enough kindling, your small splits will catch fire before it burns out. If it fails, add more kindling and tryn it again. You can also use firelogs as a firestarter, They burn for about 30 minutes; long enough to catch the small splits.
When you choose to heat with wood, there are many things to consider and to know. This article deals with firewood.
Woodburning is a very environmentally friendly act. Did you know a tree decaying in the forest will give off more carbon that the same tree burned in your wood stove? People that say burning wood is irresponsible are simply uneducated on the facts.
Each and every year I hear the same questions from my new woodburning friends. “What kind of wood” is often asked. My answer may surprise you.
The species of wood, ironically is not as important as your stove or how long the wood has been split and stacked in the dry!
THE STOVE: You absolutely want to start with a modern stove; a stove that has been listed and tested to meet the strict EPA Phase II emissions limits. Older, uncertified stoves do not have any form of secondary combustion to reburn the emissions of the stove. What that means is there will be a lot more pollution from an older stove and those emissions are unburned fuel and lost heat. You will have to burn a lot more wood to get the same amount of heat you would from a certified stove.
THE FIREWOOD: As I stated a moment ago, the species of the wood is not as important as how long it has been split and stacked in the dry. Fresh split wood, even if it has been laying on the ground for years, is still wet. Only when wood is cut to length, split and stacked does is begin to lose its moisture. I can’t count how many people said the tree fell 2 years ago so it should be seasoned and ready to cut and split. Not the case.
For hardwoods, you typically want the wood to be stacked to air-dry for a minimum of 6 months before heating season. For medium to soft woods, a year or more is ideal. Even the best of wood will heat poorly when it is not properly seasoned. That is because so much of the energy from the fire is being used up by the firewood itself to dry up the moisture. Very little heat will be used to heat your home.
“But Jack, my Pappy told me never to burn pine in the stove because it will clog up the chimney”. If it is not dried properly, ANY wood will clog up the chimney. Other places in the US have nothing but evergreens and that is all they burn. Ever burned a bunch of old pine or a bundle of lumber scraps? That burned real nice and hot didn’t it? That is because it was dry.
Here’s a bit of knowledge that will set your mind at ease on firewood;
ALL WOOD, regardless of species, has the same amount of particulate matter. With the same moisture content, a pound of white pine will produce the same amount of emissions as a pound of red oak. Pine is less dense than oak therefore you may need more cubic feet of pine to make the same weight as oak but they will heat and pollute about the same. Since their emissions are the same, neither will gunk up the chimney more than the other.
“I can get pine for almost nothing! So, you’re saying I can just burn pine”? ABSOLUTELY! Like I said, there are places that have nothing else. In fact, you will love burning pine. It starts easy and heats great. The only, and I mean ONLY drawbacks are burntimes and seasoning time. Since BTU in wood is PER POUND, you just can’t get as much pine into your stove as you can hardwoods. The denser the wood, the more pounds per cubic foot of firewood, the more fuel you have in your stove, therefore the longer it will burn on a load. Personally I would like to have some of both so I could load up with hardwood at night and burn softwoods during the day when I am there to load the stove.
Have a friend in the tree cutting business? I bet you can get their softwood for next to nothing. They probably chip it up and make mulch out of it just to get rid of it. Call him up and get yourself free heat. Just stack it a year in advance or more and you will be happy as a tic on a dog.
So you’ve just layed down $1500 bucks on a brand new wood stove. You figure you will just vent that thing into the fireplace and save the expense of adding a chimney to the house. That is possible, but you do have some very serious considerations to make…
When installing a stove or fireplace in a home, one question that always comes up is how often does the chimney need cleaning? The answer isn’t always as simple as “every year”.
You have lots of choices, but which one is right for you?
If you’re a fireplace lover you probably have a secret place where you dump your fireplace ashes when you clean out the fireplace.
I often get calls on how to build a fire. The most common complaint is that the fire gets going but the kindling burns out and the logs don’t catch. Here are some tips (my picture shows a fire that will not start – no kindling);
When you choose to heat with wood, there are many things to consider and to know. This article deals with firewood.